A Collector's Guide to Buying Vintage Watches

Collecting vintage watches is a growing hobby intear. Ask the vendor for a detailed report on the
most parts of the western world. Men,history of servicing of the watch and its current
particularly, are attracted by the romance andcondition. If the vendor cannot supply such
novelty of having a micro-engine on their wrist asinformation it is better to let the watch go rather
both a time-teller and an image statement.One ofthan experience the disappointment of acquiring a
the most frustrating aspects of collecting vintagewatch that has suffered abuse in the past and
watches is the number of fakes, frankenwatcheshaving to deal with the ongoing symptoms of that
and fraudsters one encounters in pursuit of thisabuse.7. Claiming an old warrior is a handsome
noble, but increasingly costly, passion.Theprince. Many vendors use descriptions like 'minty',
comeback of the mechanical watch has drawn'100% authentic', 'very clean', 'this one is a keeper',
out all sorts of insects from under their rocks.and so on. Most of these descriptions are useless
The pursuit of one's passion for old timepieces willif not backed up by evidence.When examining a
inevitably lead to numerous encounters with roguegood quality picture of the watch movement, and
repairers who charge house prices for inferioralways ask for pictures if you are buying on the
work, linear decendents of horse theives whointernet, look for any discolouration of the
palm off fakes as the real thing, Doctorsurfaces of plates and bridges. Look for any signs
Frankensteins who create sought-after modelsof corrosion or parts of the watch that do not
from parts of other watches, the usual bevy ofmatch in colour, particularly rotor bridges and the
shonks, crooks and tricksters out to convince thepart of the watch that contains the calibre or
gullible and the unwary to swipe their well wornserial numbers. Look for new additions that show
credit cards.In a recent seven day survey andthemselves by their shininess. These are all
follow-up I completed on the listing of vintageindicators of inauthenticity, parts swapping or at
Omega Constellation watches on a major on-lineleast major repairs.8. Examine the movement for
trading site, more than 50 percent of all listingsburred screw heads and scrapes and damage to
were of watches that were inauthentic in somethe movement plates or bridges, which are sure
way - that gives you some idea of whatsigns of inexpert work, or at least indicate the
collectors are up against.Caveat Emptor, raritymovement was separate from the case for
and product knowledge steer the purchasingsome time before a case was found to match.
behaviours of astute collectors in any collectingChecks for surface discoloration on the
field and these three principles are particularlymovement plates, blotches, corrosion, or parts
important when purchasing vintage watchesthat don't match the rest of the movement
on-line and through bricks and mortarpatina.9. Examine the case back to determine
dealers.Frankenwatches describe the practice ofwhether the watch has had a hard life. Beware of
taking parts from different watches of the sameexcessive polishing that takes the sharpness
calibre series and 'creating' a new or betteraway from the edges of the watch case, as that
pedigree of movement. In some countries ofagain indicates considerable wear and tear overall
Europe they are called 'Wedding' watches. Thisand devalues the watch.10. A watch that has
practice is especially prevalent in middle and higherobviously had a hard life indicates carelessness
end timepieces that are most sought-after bytowards its maintenance and irregularity in
collectors.In tandem with the obvious deception ofservicing. Generally speaking, mechanical watches
Frankenwatches, there are a number of othershould be serviced every three to five years, and
intentional and inadvertent frauds that occur:1.it is not difficult to detect a watch that has been
Housing a different movement in a genuine caseneglected because the signs of neglect are
or re-dialed model. If you are interested inobvious to the naked eye.Badly discoloured
collecting a particlar brand of watch, get to knowwatches with scratches, gouges to the
the calibre numbers of movements that powermovement, highly polished case backs and
particular models. Calibre numbers are different toinexpertly refinished dials are sure signs of the
serial numbers and can best be described as theamateur watchmaker at work and should be
engine type(similar to cars: eg. 2.5-litre DOHC V6avoided. They can also point to a tired old
describing the engine in a current X Type Jaguar).movement jazzed up for sale and marketed with
Some calibres of a particular brand are moregreat hyperbole to the unwary Internet
collectible than others, so it pays to know what'sshopper.11. Look carefully at the dial to see if
under the bonnet.2. Using a similar movementscrews have caused minor or major indentations
series and replacing the part that has the calibreon the dial. This indicates that incorrect or
number. This is prevalent in watch brands thatinauthentic screws have been used in the
have numerous models and where the top linemovement.Look for corrosion on the dial or flakes
models fetch higher prices that the cheaperthat have come off the dial. This can indicate that
models. Often you can tell a fraud of this typea watch has spent some or all of its life in the
through colouration contrasts or newness of thetropics and was not serviced as regularly as it
parts that contains the calibre number.3. Placing ashould have been. It can also indicate immersion in
high end dial and movement in the wrong case.water.Watches that are regularly serviced will
Many of the higher end vintage watches havehave their seals replaced at service and should
case back numbers that can be checked withshow few signs of moisture having entered the
serial numbers to see if they match.4. Replacingcase. Remember rust under a dial cannot be seen
worn hands and crowns with non-genuine handsand flaky dials can be a sign of hidden problems
and crowns and claiming the watch is 100 percentunderneath.12. Rust cannot generally be removed
authentic. A common problem with many vintagefrom watches and at best can be neutralised. A
models that reduces the value of the watch.sure sign of neglect is corrosion on or near the
Before buying, build up a library of pictures ofthreads of the case back or the area where the
watches that you know are genuine and match acase back meets the case. These are signs of
prospective purchase against them. On-line forumsirregular servicing and signify the possibility of
are a great way to acquire and swap pictures.5.excessive wear of the movement.Watch
Badly executed dials and re-dials. Ask forcollecting is a rewarding past-time for thousands
super-sized pictures so you can examine theof collectors worldwide. Fortunately they
quality of the printing and also the placement ofcongregate in various forums on the Internet and
lettering. A bad re-dial will wipe as much as 30are generally very happy to share their
percent off the value of the watch. Again picturesknowledge and passion for particular brands. Build
and the help of other collectors is invaluable inup and use your knowledge to better determine
making sure you have an authentic watch.6.the value of the watches you collect.An evenly
Replacing numerous worn parts in a genuinecoloured movement, retaining much of its original
models with genuine parts. While this is a perfectlysheen and showing signs of regular service
acceptable practice, it does indicate that at somedemands a higher price and improves its value far
stage in the life of the movement it wasbetter than a poor cousin that has been through
neglected or damaged. Knowledgeable andthe wars.(c) Desmond Guilfoyle 2006Desmond
pernickety collectors look for signs of colourGuilfoyle in an award winning commentator on
variation on the movement and often avoidinfluence, persuasion and charisma. He has written
watches that are not of one colour hue.Look forthree books on those subjects and his book 'The
scratches or gouges on the non-replaced parts,Charisma Effect' has been published in seven
and look for corrosion or other signs of wear andlanguages around the globe.