| Ask me which Pacific island has the most to | | | | intently from perches on nearby rocks. If you |
| offer hikers and I'll probably answer Easter | | | | keep moving, you'll arrive back in town in |
| Island. Here on an island 11 km wide and 23 | | | | five or six hours (but take adequate food, |
| km long you'll find nearly a thousand ancient | | | | water, and sunscreen). This is probably the |
| Polynesian statues strewn along a powerfully | | | | finest coastal walk in the South Pacific. |
| beautiful coastline or littering the slopes | | | | |
| of an extinct volcano. | | | | Almost as good is the hike along the south |
| | | | coast, although you're bound to run into |
| The legends of Easter Island have been | | | | other tourists here as a paved highway |
| recounted many times. What's less known is | | | | follows the shore. Begin early and catch a |
| that the island's assorted wonders are easily | | | | taxi to Rano Raraku, the stone quarry where |
| accessible on foot from the comfort of the | | | | all of the island's statues were born. This |
| only settlement, Hanga Roa. Before setting | | | | is easily the island's most spectacular sight |
| out see the sights, however, visit the | | | | with 397 statues in various stages of |
| excellent archaeological museum next to Ahu | | | | completion lying scattered around the crater. |
| Tahai on the north side of town (the term | | | | And each day large tour groups come to Rano |
| "ahu" refers to an ancient stone platform). | | | | Raraku to sightsee and have lunch. However, |
| Aside from the exhibits, the museum has maps | | | | if you arrive before 9 am, you'll have the |
| which can help you plan your trip. An online | | | | site to yourself for a few hours. When you |
| map is available at | | | | see the first tour buses headed your way, |
| | | | hike down to Ahu Tongariki on the coast, |
| The first morning after arrival, I suggest | | | | where 15 massive statues were reerected in |
| you climb Easter Island's most spectacular | | | | 1994. From here, just start walking back |
| volcano, Rano Kau, where Orongo, a major | | | | toward Hanga Roa (20 km) along the south |
| archaeological site, sits on the crater's | | | | coast. You'll pass many fallen statues and |
| rim. But rather than marching straight up the | | | | enjoy some superb scenery. Whenever you get |
| main road to the crater, look for the | | | | tired, simply go up onto the highway and |
| unmarked shortcut trail off a driveway to the | | | | stick out your thumb and you'll be back in |
| right just past the forestry station south of | | | | town in a jiffy. |
| town. It takes under two hours to cover the | | | | |
| six km from Hanga Roa to Orongo, but bring | | | | An outstanding 13-km walk begins at the |
| along a picnic lunch and make a day of it. | | | | museum and follows the west coast five km |
| (If climbing a 316-meter hill sounds | | | | north to Ahu Tepeu. As elsewhere, keep your |
| daunting, you can take a taxi to the summit | | | | eyes pealed for banana trees growing out of |
| for around US$6 and easily walk back later in | | | | the barren rocks as these often indicate |
| the day.) Once on top, you'll find hiking | | | | caves you can explore. Inland from Ahu Tepeu |
| down into the colourful crater presents no | | | | is one of the island's most photographed |
| difficulty. It may also look easy to go right | | | | sites, Ahu Akivi, with seven statues restored |
| around the crater rim, but only do so if | | | | in 1960. From here an interior farm road runs |
| you're a very experienced hiker and have a | | | | straight back to town (study the maps at the |
| companion along as shear 250-meter cliffs | | | | museum carefully, as you'll go far out of |
| drop into the sea from the ridge. | | | | your way if you choose the wrong road here). |
| | | | |
| Another day, rise early and take a taxi to | | | | A shorter hike takes you up Puna Pau, a |
| lovely Anakena Beach at the end of the paved | | | | smaller crater which provided stone for the |
| road on the north side of the island (you | | | | red topknots that originally crowned the |
| should pay under US$10 for the 20 km). A few | | | | island's statues. There's a great view of |
| of the famous Easter Island statues have been | | | | Hanga Roa from the three crosses on an |
| restored at Anakena and you could go for a | | | | adjacent hill and you can easily do it all in |
| swim, although the main reason you've come is | | | | half a day. A different walk takes you right |
| the chance to trek back to Hanga Roa around | | | | around the 3,353-meter airport runway, which |
| the road-free northwest corner of the island. | | | | crosses the island just south of town. Near |
| You'll pass numerous abandoned statues lying | | | | the east end of the runway is Ahu Vinapu with |
| facedown where they fell, and the only living | | | | perfectly fitted monolithic stonework bearing |
| creatures you're unlikely to encounter are | | | | an uncanny resemblance to similar |
| the small brown hawks which will watch you | | | | constructions in Peru. |